Best Pruning Shears for Houseplants

Not all shears are created equal—learn the difference between bypass and anvil styles.

Quality pruning shears including Felco bypass pruners and precision micro-tip shears with clean cutting demonstration

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TL;DR: Bypass pruners create clean cuts; anvil pruners crush stems. Sterilize between plants to prevent disease spread. Quality shears last decades with proper maintenance.

The Three Types of Pruners

1. Bypass Shears (Best for Green Stems) Bypass shears work like scissors. Two sharp blades pass by each other. They create a clean, precise cut that heals quickly. Ideal for live, green growth and water propagation.

2. Anvil Shears (Best for Dry/Woody Stems) Anvil shears have one sharp blade that closes onto a flat metal "anvil." They crush as they cut, which is fine for dead, dry wood but terrible for living tissue. Avoid using these on healthy green stems unless you want bruised cuts that rot.

3. Micro-Tip Shears (Best for Precision) These are small, sharp shears for bonsai, succulents, or intricate trimming. If you have tiny props or delicate work, these are worth it.

Top Picks

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1. Felco F-2 Classic Bypass Pruners – $35 The industry standard.

Sharp, durable carbon steel blade.
Replaceable parts (you can buy just a new blade in 20 years).
Comfortable grip for medium-sized hands.

2. Gonicc 8" Bypass Pruners – $25 Best value.

Very sharp out of the box.
Titanium coating resists rust and sap.
Slightly bulkier than Felco but excellent for the price.

3. ARS HP-VS8Z Micro-Tip Pruning Shears – $22 Best for precision.

Spring-loaded, ultra-lightweight.
Perfect for succulents, herbs, and tiny cuttings.
Don't use these on thick branches—they will bend.

What Ruins Shears (And How to Avoid It)

1. Cutting Wet Sap Sap is sticky. It dulls blades instantly. If you cut a plant with high sap (like Hoyas or Ficus), wipe the blade with a rag between cuts, or the blade will become coated.

2. Using on Dead, Woody Stems Anvil shears are meant for wood. Bypass shears are meant for green growth. If you use bypass shears on a thick, dry woody stem, you will twist the blade and ruin the edge.

3. Ignoring Rust A little surface rust is okay to clean off. Deep rust weakens the metal and causes pitting. Always dry your shears after use.

4. Dropping Them Shears are precision tools. Dropping them onto concrete can chip the blade edge.

Cleaning & Sterilizing Protocol

Do this after EVERY pruning session.

Wipe: Use a clean rag to wipe off dirt and sap.
Disinfect: Dip the blade in 70% isopropyl alcohol or a 10% bleach solution for 30 seconds.
Dry: Wipe completely dry.
Oil: Apply a drop of mineral oil to the blade hinge and the flat side of the blade.

Pro Tip: Keep a small bottle of rubbing alcohol and cotton balls in your pruning kit. Sterilizing between plants prevents spreading viral or fungal diseases (like mosaic virus or powdery mildew).

Sharpening Your Shears (Yes, You Can Do It)

You don't need to buy new shears every year. You can sharpen them.

What you need:

A diamond sharpening stone or a whetstone.
A light machine oil.

Method:

Open the shears so the blade is flat against the stone.
Draw the blade across the stone at a 10-15 degree angle (match the existing bevel).
Do 5-10 strokes.
Close the shears and test the sharpness on a piece of paper. If it tears, keep sharpening. If it slices, you're done.

For anvil shears, only sharpen the beveled edge. The anvil is soft metal—you want to preserve its shape, not grind it down.

The Verdict

Buy a quality pair of bypass shears (Felco or Gonicc). Take care of them. Sterilize them. Sharpen them. A good pair of shears is the one tool you will use more than any other in your plant journey.

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